Getting called for a casting can feel exciting and nerve-wracking all at once. But understanding the process removes a lot of that anxiety. Whether it's your first open call or you're heading to an established agency's audition day, knowing exactly what to expect makes all the difference. Let's walk through what happens at a casting from start to finish.
Types of Castings You'll Encounter
Open Calls and Casting Days
Open calls are exactly what they sound like — the doors are open to anyone interested in representation. Major agencies in New York and London hold these regularly, often on specific days each week. You show up, wait your turn, and have a brief interaction with an agent or casting director.
The energy at open calls is usually casual, sometimes hectic. Dozens of people come through in a few hours. The agency's main goal is to spot new talent that might fit their roster. Your job is simply to present yourself professionally and authentically.
Go-Sees
A go-see means you've been invited specifically. An agency noticed your online portfolio, received a referral, or is interested based on your book. This is already a positive signal — you're not competing with everyone else walking through the door.
Go-sees are typically one-on-one or with a small group. You'll have more time to talk with the agent, ask questions, and make a genuine connection. The atmosphere is more personal and less rushed.
Callbacks
A callback happens when an agency or client wants to see you again. Maybe they want you in different clothing, or they want another look at you after narrowing down their options. Callbacks mean you made a strong first impression. Treat them seriously — this is a second chance to lock in the opportunity.
Client Castings
Client castings are for specific jobs — commercial campaigns, editorials, runway shows, or video projects. The client (the brand, magazine, production company) is often present or reviewing video submissions. These castings are more formal and criteria-specific. You need to match the brief exactly.
Client castings happen after you're already signed with an agency. Your agent submits you, and if they like you on paper, they call you in.
Before Your Casting: Preparation
The Physical Presentation
Here's the truth: agencies want to see you as you actually are, not a styled-up version. Follow these professional standards:
Hair Removal: Always properly shaved or waxed.
Nails: Clean manicure and pedicure, transparent polish only (never black or red). Keep nails short, filed and even.
Makeup: Light and natural — even skin tone, concealer under eyes, hydrated lips, groomed eyebrows.
Hair: Clean, natural, washed the day before (not the same day). Bring a hair elastic at your wrist to tie it back if requested. Keep hair looking healthy and well-maintained.
What to Wear: Fitted jeans + solid color tank top or fitted top that shows your silhouette. The goal is for the casting director to see your body and face clearly, without any distractions.
Underwear: Solid black (or nude/skin tone for women).
Shoes: Always bring heels. Wear sneakers to arrive, then change into heels for the casting.
Jewelry & Accessories: None. No jewelry, no glasses.
Extra Layers: Okay to wear, but remove them before presenting yourself to the client.
Essential: Bring your own deodorant/perfume.
Don't try to style yourself into what you think they want. You're there to show potential.
Gather Your Materials
Your book is now 100% digital (no more paper books — too heavy and not eco-friendly). You must have a tablet or phone with a good screen to show your portfolio during castings. Bring printed composites (comp cards) — they're used less frequently but still valuable for some clients.
Memorize your basic stats: height, measurements (bust, waist, hip), shoe size, eye and hair color.
Plan Your Route and Timing
Look up the exact address and plan your route. Arrive on time (15 minutes early is recommended). Being late signals that you're unreliable. If you're running late, contact the agency immediately.
In major cities like New York and London, travel times can be unpredictable. Build in buffer time. If there's a transit delay, contact the agency immediately.
During the Casting: What Actually Happens
You Arrive and Sign In
Arrive on time. You enter the casting space (usually a simple office or studio), introduce yourself to the receptionist. Fill out the sign-in sheet and check who's before you. Remove extra layers of clothing before presenting yourself. Check your makeup (eyebrows, lip balm). Prepare your portfolio and composite. Put on your heels.
Be friendly and professional with everyone — the receptionist, the assistants, everyone. Word travels fast in this industry.
While you're waiting, stay calm. Your phone should be on silent. Sit quietly and breathe. Confidence and natural demeanor matter.
The Polaroid or Digital Photo
The casting director or photographer takes a quick shot of you — usually de face (straight on) and de profil (profile). Sometimes a three-quarter angle too. The lighting is standardized and simple. You might be asked to make certain expressions, or to stay neutral. Trust their direction.
This photo is important because it's the record of your presence that day. It should show you at your best and most natural — relaxed posture, genuine expression, eye contact.
The Conversation
This is where real interaction happens. The casting director will ask you several questions:
- Where are you from?
- Do you have representation?
- What's your modeling experience?
- Are you available for last-minute bookings?
- Do you have any restrictions or preferences?
Answer honestly and conversationally. Don't rehearse responses — just be yourself. If you're new to modeling, say so. Agencies actually respect honesty. They'd rather work with an enthusiastic beginner than someone inflating their resume.
Keep answers brief. You don't need to tell your entire life story. The casting director is assessing your personality as much as your look — are you easy to work with? Do you take direction well? Do you seem reliable?
The Walk or Movement Test
Many castings, especially for runway or figure work, involve a short walk. The casting director will ask you to walk toward them and back, sometimes with a turn. Literally just walk. Don't add anything — no exaggerated movements, no runway theatrics, just how you naturally move.
They're evaluating your posture, your gait, your balance, your confidence. There's no "right" way to walk. They want to see if you move comfortably in your own body.
Clothing Changes (Advanced Castings)
For some client castings, you might try on different pieces or styles. You'll change in a private fitting room and step back out. The client may ask you to change outfits or may take Polaroids. At the end: retrieve your portfolio, give your composite card, smile, say goodbye. This helps the client see how different looks work with your frame. If this happens, stay professional and move efficiently. The client is assessing compatibility between you and their brand aesthetic.
Preparation for Shooting Days
If you're selected for a photo shoot or video production, follow these standards:
- Arrive with clean hair without any product, no makeup, hydrated skin only
- Clean nails, not too long, filed, no polish
- Come fully waxed/shaved: eyebrows, underarms, bikini line, legs. Avoid razors (visible razor cuts in photos) — invest in an electric epilator
- Arrive 10 minutes early
- Inform the agency if: you're sick, have a cold sore, injury, new tattoo or piercing, or any other relevant information
What Casting Directors Actually Look For
Raw Potential Over Perfection
Casting directors aren't looking for someone who looks perfect today. They're looking for someone who has interesting features, good proportions, and the ability to be shaped into different looks. They see potential for styling, makeup, hair changes, and overall development.
Professional Demeanor
Your attitude matters enormously. Can you take direction? Are you pleasant to be around? Do you seem reliable? Agencies book models with clients repeatedly. If you're difficult now, clients won't want to work with you later.
Genuine Interest, Not Desperation
Show authentic interest in the agency and in modeling. Be enthusiastic but not pushy. Desperation reads. Confidence doesn't mean arrogance — it means believing you have something valuable to offer.
Flexibility and Adaptability
The modeling industry changes constantly. Trends shift, briefs change, clients want different things. Can you adapt? Do you seem willing to experiment and take feedback? These qualities matter as much as your face.
Punctuality and Reliability
You showed up on time, you followed instructions, you engaged professionally. These basics signal reliability. In an industry where last-minute changes happen constantly, reliability is gold.
After Your Casting: The Waiting Period
How Long Will It Take?
For client castings, you might hear back within 24 hours if they move fast. For agency open calls or go-sees, expect to hear something within a week if they're interested. If more than two weeks pass and you don't hear anything, they've likely moved on.
Callbacks often come within days — they're urgent because they mean someone wants to see you again.
How You'll Hear Back
Text, call, or email. There's no official formal notification process. This is why keeping your phone accessible and checking messages daily is crucial.
Interpreting Silence or Rejection
No response to an open call doesn't mean you're not modelable. It often just means you didn't match what they need right now. Agencies' needs change weekly. A rejection for a specific client casting (maybe they wanted someone taller, or with longer hair, or a different ethnicity) has zero reflection on your overall potential.
One of the most important mindset shifts in modeling is understanding that rejection is rarely personal. It's almost always logistical.
Common Casting Mistakes to Avoid
- Over-styling yourself: Heavy makeup, styled hair, fashionable outfit — agencies see right through it. They want you, not your stylist's interpretation of you.
- Lying about your experience or measurements: It catches up with you fast, and it damages your reputation.
- Appearing unprepared or disorganized: Missing paperwork, forgetting your contact info, seeming confused about basic details — these signal carelessness.
- Being pushy about money or opportunities: Let your agent handle business details. At castings, focus on making a good impression.
- Showing low energy or low confidence: You don't need to be bubbly, but you should seem present and engaged. Low energy reads as disinterest.
- Asking excessive questions about the job before you're booked: There's time for logistics later. Right now, just show them you're capable.
- Treating casting support staff poorly: How you treat the receptionist matters. They'll report back.
The Agency Day: A Special Type of Casting
In major markets like New York and London, agencies sometimes host "agency days" or "testing days." These are different from open calls. You're typically invited (based on online submission or referral), and there are fewer people. The agency might bring in photographers for test shots, industry professionals, or guest agents.
Agency days are more involved. You might spend a few hours there, get photographed, have multiple conversations, and potentially participate in group activities. Treat it like you'd treat any important casting — arrive early, dress simply, be professional and present.
Final Thoughts
Castings are a normal part of modeling. Even the most successful models have attended hundreds of them. Each one is a chance to present yourself, connect with industry professionals, and move one step closer to your opportunities.
Remember: casting directors want you to succeed. They're not trying to intimidate you. They're assessing fit, potential, and professionalism. Show up as your authentic self, be professional, and let your potential speak for itself.
The more castings you do, the more comfortable you'll become. Your first one might feel like a big deal — and it is — but it's also just the beginning of many more.